我们生活在时尚的黄金时代。 We live in a golden age of fashion.
一个几乎任何人都可以接受魅力和生活方式的时代 A time when almost anyone can buy into the glamour and the lifestyle
最新趋势。 of the latest trends.
你会看起来十有八九！ You are going to look ten out of ten!
衣服比以往任何时候都便宜。 Clothes are cheaper than ever.
去年，我们在它们上面花费了近500亿英镑。 And last year, we spent nearly £50 billion on them.
但有个问题。 But there's a problem.
所有这些廉价时尚正在破坏我们的地球。 All this cheap fashion is damaging our planet.
时尚的影响是巨大的。 Fashion's impact is huge.
它和石油和化学品一样。 It's on a par with oil and chemicals.
我的名字是Stacey Dooley，我要环游世界 My name is Stacey Dooley, and I'm going to travel the world
揭露我们对快速时尚上瘾的隐藏成本。 to uncover the hidden cost of our addiction to fast fashion.
该行业被指责为最大的污染者之一 The industry is accused of being one of the biggest polluters
在这个星球上，我将访问那些制造衣服的国家 on the planet, and I'll be visiting countries where clothes are made
看看这是不是真的。 to see if this is true.
有什么问题吗？ What's the problem?
好的，让我们让开，因为我们已经很匆忙了。 OK, let's move out of the way, because we've been hurried on.
我喜欢衣服，但我不知道 I love clothes but I have no idea
对他们造成的伤害。 about the damage being done to make them.
绝对臭死了。 It absolutely stinks.
我无法告诉你这味道有多难闻。 I can't tell you how bad the smell is.
老实说，我向你保证这是非常糟糕的。 Honestly, I promise you it's so bad.
我将见证世界上最严重的环境灾难之一 I'll witness one of the worst environmental disasters the world
从未见过。 has ever seen.
我会调查正在破坏我们星球的全球工业 And I'll investigate the global industry that's trashing our planet
批量生产我们的衣服。 to mass-produce our clothes.
正在发生的事情的规模绝对令人叹为观止。 The scale of what's going on is just absolutely breathtaking.
我学到的东西会让你在买什么的时候三思而后行。 What I learn will make you think twice about what you buy.
如果我们不改变事情会发生什么？ What is going to happen if we don't change things?
地球已经消失了。 The planet is gone.
你好。你好吗？很好，谢谢。你好吗？说对了。 Hello. How are you? Good, thank you. How are you? Spot on.
谢谢你，真的很好。 Thank you, really well.
我喜欢一点购物疗法。 I love a bit of retail therapy.
买衣服是我最喜欢的放松方式之一。 And shopping for clothes is one of my favourite ways to unwind.
有新的片段，女孩们说？ There's new bits, the girls were saying?
当然，底部有一些。谢谢你。 Absolutely, there's some down the bottom. Thank you.
我会有一个快速的鼻子。 I'll have a quick nose.
通常，如果我有一天休息，我会来这里，买一份款待！ Often, if I've got a day off, I'll come here, buy a treat!
爱死它了！ Love it!
回家吧。 Go home.
把零食放上。 Put the treat on.
在我请客的时候给我拍上千张照片。 And take a thousand photos of me in my treat.
悲剧！我是悲剧！ Tragic! I'm tragic!
我一直很喜欢买衣服。 I've always loved buying clothes.
但我从没想过时尚业 But I never thought the fashion industry
可能正在破坏地球。 could be damaging the planet.
我读过一些文章，这让我对此提出了质疑。 I've come across some articles which have made me question that.
有一种说法是服装业 There's been this claim that the garment industry
是世界上第二大污染源。 is the second worst polluter in the world.
我发现这完全令人震惊。 I find that utterly staggering.
我参与了关于黑暗面的电影 I've been involved in films about the dark side
时装业的先驱。 of the fashion trade before.
但我从来没有想过时尚是一个主要的污染者。 But I've never thought of fashion as a major polluter.
我想知道公众的想法是否和我一样。 And I want to know if the public thinks like I do.
所以，今天，我要做一个小实验，如果你喜欢的话， So, today, I'm running a mini experiment, if you like,
我想知道污染的人是怎么想的 and I want to know how polluting people think
服装业是。 the clothing industry is.
我已经建立了六个代表不同行业的数字- I've set up six figures representing different industries -
牛肉，煤炭和石油，旅游，水力压裂，运输和时尚- beef, coal and oil, tourism, fracking, transport and fashion -
我希望人们按照他们认为的顺序对它们进行排序 and I want people to rank them in the order they think
是对环境破坏最大的。 is the most environmentally damaging.
很抱歉打断你，我能和你说两秒钟吗？ I'm sorry to interrupt, can I speak to you for two seconds?
好的，跟我说说你认为最糟糕的是什么。 OK, so talk me through what you think is the worst.
我会说可能是交通工具。二号？ I would say probably transport. Number two?
煤炭。好吧。 Coal. Right.
第三？我要说的是旅游业。第四？牛肉。牛肉。 Third? I'm going to say tourism. Fourth? Beef. Beef.
所以，水力压裂排在第五位，时尚排在最后。 So, fracking fifth and fashion last.
那就剩下第六位了，时尚。时尚。 So that leaves sixth, fashion. Fashion.
那么我们认为时尚是最后一种？是啊。 Then we think fashion is last? Yes.
那么，第六个。 So, the sixth.
事实上，大多数人认为时尚是污染最小的。 In fact, most people thought fashion was the least polluting of all.
所以，真相的时刻。 So, the moment of truth.
污染最严重的是煤和石油。 The worst polluter is coal and oil.
第二个显然是时尚。 And the second is, apparently, fashion.
真的吗？好的。时尚？是啊。不可能。 Really? OK. Fashion? Yeah. No way.
我一点也不认为它会污染环境。 I didn't think it would be polluting at all.
是啊，我不喜欢这个主意。 Yeah, I don't like the idea of that.
不，这意味着我们不能真的以同样的方式逛商店。 No, it means we can't really hit the shops in the same way.
不是没有负罪感。完全正确。 Not guilt-free. Exactly.
保重。谢谢你。 Take care. Thank you.
我认为他们甚至没有想到或认识到这种时尚 I don't think they even thought or recognised that fashion
可能是污染者。 could be a polluter.
我是说，显然是这样。怎么？ I mean, apparently so. How?
为了了解更多，我要在一个特别的展览上见一个朋友 To learn more, I'm meeting a friend at a special exhibition
在伦敦的V&A博物馆。 at the V&A Museum in London.
露西·西格尔(Lucy Siegle)是一名广播员和记者 Lucy Siegle is a broadcaster and journalist
他一直在调查时尚 who's been investigating fashion's
多年来不断增加的环境足迹。 growing environmental footprint for years.
露西，我听过这样的说法，时尚，服装业， Lucy, I've heard this claim that fashion, the garment industry,
是第二大污染源。 is the second worst polluter.
你认为这背后有什么真相吗？ Do you think there's any truth behind that?
我认为有可信的证据表明服装和服装 I think there is credible evidence that says that garment and apparel
生产是全球五大污染源之一。 production is one of the top five polluters globally.
这是不可持续的，这是借来的时间。 It's not sustainable, it's on borrowed time.
因为我们正在做的是我们正在生产超过1000亿 Because what we're doing is we are producing over 100 billion
每一年和地球上的新纤维制成的新衣服 new garments from new fibres every single year and the planet
无法维持这一点。 cannot sustain that.
露西，我几乎不想问。怎么了？ Lucy, I almost don't want to ask. Yes?
今天跟我说说我的衣服。 Talk me through my outfit today.
真正脱颖而出的是你的牛仔裤。 The thing that really, really stands out are your jeans.
因为它们是棉花做的。 Because they're made of cotton.
棉花的影响力令人难以置信。 Cotton is incredibly impactful.
我想人们听到这个消息会非常震惊和惊讶。 I think people will be really shocked and surprised to hear that.
因此，棉花比任何其他纤维消耗更多的水。 So, cotton uses more water than any other fibre.
但它也有很多杀虫剂和化肥， But it also has a lot of pesticides and fertilisers,
它们也破坏了土地，它生长的土壤。 which have also damaged the land, the soil where it is grown.
你有多少条牛仔裤？ How many pairs of jeans do you have?
大概六八个吧。 Probably about six or eight.
六八个。 Six or eight.
坦率地说，棉花是其中之一。 To put it frankly, cotton is responsible for one
到目前为止我们看到的最大的环境灾难 of the biggest environmental catastrophes that we've seen to date
在地球上。我的天啊。 on planet Earth. My God.
棉花是英国最喜欢的面料。 Cotton is Britain's favourite fabric.
我们几乎一半的衣服都是用它做的。 Almost half of the clothes we wear are made from it.
我确实觉得这是我如何看待棉花的一个完美例子。 I do feel like this is a perfect example of how I'd view cotton.
你知道，非常自然，非常干净，非常环保。 You know, very natural, very clean, very eco-friendly.
以至于他们用它来拉我们进店里。 So much so that they're using it as a pull to get us in the shop.
棉花的可持续种植已经有几千年的历史了。 Cotton has been grown sustainably for thousands of years.
今天，我们在工业规模上种植它。 Today, we grow it on an industrial scale.
但是它使用了如此多的水和化学物质，以至于棉花已经成为 But it uses so much water and chemicals that cotton has become
最不可持续的农作物之一。 one of the most unsustainable crops.
我要亲眼看看损失。 I need to see the damage for myself.
所以我要去中亚。 So I'm going to Central Asia.
它是棉花生产的主要枢纽。 It's a major hub for cotton production.
这里种植的棉花最终会出现在英国的商业街上， Cotton grown here can end up on Britain's high street,
但它被指责为无与伦比的 but it's been blamed for an unparalleled
这里的环境灾难。 environmental catastrophe here.
可能是有史以来最大的。 Possibly the biggest ever seen.
我来到哈萨克斯坦，一个努力应对的国家 I've come to Kazakhstan, a country struggling to deal
带着尘埃。 with the fallout.
这场灾难发生在咸海 This disaster took place at the Aral Sea and that's
我现在要去的地方。 where I'm heading now.
这是咸海的地图。 So this is a map of the Aral Sea.
相当令人印象深刻，即使是在屏幕上。 Quite impressive, even on a screen.
巨大的。面积只有英国的一半。 Enormous. Half the size of England.
咸海位于哈萨克斯坦和乌兹别克斯坦之间。 The Aral Sea is situated between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.
它曾经是世界上最大的内陆海之一。 It was once one of the biggest inland seas in the world.
它占地6800万平方公里，是鱼类的天堂 Covering 68 million square kilometres, it was a haven for fish
和野生动物，并以其美丽而闻名。 and wildlife, and famed for its beauty.
每年都有成千上万的游客来游泳 Thousands of tourists came every year to swim
在碧蓝的海水中。 in its turquoise blue waters.
今天，海洋作为棉花毁灭性的象征而闻名 Today, the sea is now famous as a symbol of cotton's devastating
对环境的影响。 impact on the environment.
史黛西，这是塞里克。 Stacey, this is Cerrick.
我已经安排了有人带我参观。 I've arranged to have someone show me around.
他今天要带你去海边。 He's going to take you to the sea today.
太棒了，我真的很感谢你的帮助。 Brilliant, I really appreciate your help.
塞里克在灾难现场提供导游。 Cerrick gives guided tours around the site of the disaster.
你可以和沥青说再见，直到晚上你才会看到它。 You can say goodbye to the asphalt, you will not see it till evening.
再见了停机坪。 Goodbye to the tarmac.
是啊。哦！ Yeah. Ooh!
保持冷静。 Keep your head.
他一开始就带我去看看大海发生了什么事。 He begins by taking me to see what's happened to the sea.
我们现在海床上开车。 We are driving on the sea bed now.
现在？是啊。 Right now? Yeah.
我们在海床上开车多久了？ How long have we been driving on the seabed for?
我们已经开了半个小时了。半小时？ We have been driving for half an hour. Half an hour?
这让你对这个问题的规模有了一个概念。 So that gives you an idea of the scale of the problem here.
自60年代以来，强大的咸海一直在萎缩。 The mighty Aral has been shrinking since the '60s.
自从该地区发展棉花生产以来。 Ever since the region was developed for cotton production.
三个小时后，我们还在开车 Three hours later, and we're still driving
曾经是水的地方。 on what was once water.
所以，我们现在还在海床上。 So, we're still on the sea bed now.
在我们的右边.。 To the right of us...
那曾经是海岸线。 That used to be the coastline.
有Cam.。它们是骆驼吗？ There's cam... Are they camels?
是的，骆驼。 Yes, camels.
我觉得这很好地描述了这里正在发生的事情。 I feel that this portrays perfectly what's going on here.
曾经有鱼。 There used to be fish.
成千上万吨的鱼。 Tens of thousands of tonnes of fish.
现在有一只骆驼。 And now there is a camel.
这里发生的事情可以在卫星图像中看到 The story of what happened here can be seen in satellite images
随着时间的流逝。 of the sea taken over time.
这张旧照片显示了它曾经有多大。 This old photo shows how big it used to be.
这就是今天的样子。 And this is what it looks like today.
几乎相当于爱尔兰大小的一片水域消失了 An area of water nearly the size of Ireland has gone
在四十多年的时间里。 in just over four decades.
最大的原因可以在邻国乌兹别克斯坦看到。 The biggest reason for that can be seen in neighbouring Uzbekistan.
供给咸海的主要河流已经改道， The main rivers feeding the Aral have been diverted,
主要是为大型棉田提供水。 primarily to provide water for giant cotton farms.
今天，这个地区生产的棉花如此之多，以至于这条河被排干了 Today, the region produces so much cotton that this river is drained
在它到达大海之前。 before it reaches the sea.
我现在站的地方，我会在海底 Where I'm stood now, I would be at the bottom of the sea
床上会有大海围绕着我吗？ bed and there would be sea all around me?
是的，完全正确。现在我们站在从前的大海上。 Yes, exactly. Now we are standing on the former sea.
大海会有多少米高？ And how many metres high would the sea be?
过去这里大约有五米深。 It used to be about five metres deep here.
现在什么都没有。 Now, nothing.
失去这么多水已经产生了深远的影响 Losing this much water has had a profound impact
整个地区。 on the entire region.
在大海下沉之前，它更绿。 Before the sinking of the sea it was more green.
那里有很多植物和树木，他们还说 There was lots of vegetation and the trees, and they also say
气候更加温和。 that the climate was more mild.
冬天真的不是很冷。 The winters were really not so cold.
因此，咸海几乎消失的事实决定了 So, the fact that the Aral Sea has all but disappeared determines
你的季节是什么样的？ what your seasons are like?
是啊。 Yeah.
巨大的水体吸收太阳的热量，它们有助于保持 Large bodies of water absorb the sun's heat and they help to keep
他们周围的气候温和。 the climate around them mild.
如果没有咸海，这里的夏天可能会热到45华氏度。 Without the Aral, summers here can be as hot as 45 degrees.
冬天降到零下30度。 Winters dip to -30.
改变的不仅仅是气候。 It's not just the climate that's changed.
海床已经变成了一个巨大的沙漠和整个生态系统 The sea bed has turned into a vast desert and the entire ecosystem
支撑着的海洋已经消亡了。 the sea supported has died away.
这是一艘废弃的船。 And this is an abandoned ship.
是一艘渔船。 It's one of the fishing ships.
整个捕鱼业都被消灭了。 An entire fishing industry was wiped out.
数以万计的人失业。 Tens of thousands of jobs were lost.
那么，告诉我们在哪里，塞里克？ So, tell me where we are, Cerrick?
它曾经是一个很大的渔村。 It used to be one of the big fishing villages.
你好，我是史黛西。你好吗？ Hello, I'm Stacey. How are you?
他说自己的语言 HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
很高兴见到你。 Nice to meet you.
他说自己的语言 HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
我真的很抱歉。 I really apologise.
我的哈萨克语很糟糕。 My Kazakh is awful.
他懂一些英语单词。 He understands some English words.
这是一个很好的一个！ That's a good one to have!
过来聊聊。 Come and have a chat.
我们去阴凉处吧。 Let's go in the shade.
他一生都住在咸海地区。 He has lived in the Aral region his entire life.
你还记得咸海吗？ Do you remember the Aral Sea?
他们说自己的语言 THEY SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE
他说他们每天都会在这里钓鱼， He says every day they used to go out fishing right here,
船停在这里。 the boats were parked here.
那么马在哪里？是啊。他们每天都在这里钓鱼。 So where the horses are? Yes. Every day they used to fish here.
他们在60年代初开始减少海洋。 They started diminishing the sea in the beginning of the '60s.
这是如何影响这个社区的？ How did that affect this community?
每天我们的食物供应都有问题，而且 Daily we had a problem with the food supply, and also
有饮用水供应。 with the drinking water supply.
真的很难生存。 It was really difficult to survive.
但是棉田会有一个更可怕的 But the cotton farms would have an even more horrifying
气候变化造成的影响。 impact as a result of the changing climate.
天气变得疯狂了塞里克。 The weather's gone crazy, Cerrick.
失去大部分咸海的另一个副作用是， Another side effect of losing most of the Aral Sea is,
如你所见，风变得更大了。 as you can see, it's become a lot windier.
所以植物少了，树也少了， So there's less vegetation, there are fewer trees,
意思是没有什么可以阻挡风向，你知道吗？ meaning there is nothing to break the wind, you know?
没有什么可以阻止这些沙尘暴，你可以看到 There's nothing to stop these sandstorms that you can see
在远处。 in the distance.
这些沙尘暴是如此巨大，以至于可以从太空中看到。 These dust storms are so vast they can be seen from space.
它们含有大量洗涤过的杀虫剂 They contain huge quantities of pesticides that have been washed
从棉田进入咸海，并留在海床上。 into the Aral from the cotton farms and left on the seabed.
杀虫剂毒害了人们和农田。 The pesticides poison people and farmland.
整个地区数以百万计的人受到影响 Millions across the region were affected and the impact
时至今日仍能感受到。 is still being felt today.
你好。你好。你好吗？早上好。 Hello. Hello. How are you? Good morning.
我是史黛西，你好吗？欢迎光临。 I'm Stacey, how do you do? Welcome.
非常感谢。 Thank you ever so much.
肺结核？肺结核，是的。 TB? TB, yeah.
为什么？ Why?
有些情况是有毒尘埃遗留下来的。 Some of the conditions are a legacy of the toxic dust.
但是没有咸鱼，人们就失去了工作。 But without the Aral, people lost their jobs.
他们也不能捕鱼或种植食物， They also couldn't fish or grow food,
这导致了 and it's led to a rise in
整个阿拉尔地区的贫困相关疾病。 poverty-related illnesses across the Aral region.
很难相信像这样一个巨大的区域会如此 It's hard to believe that a huge area like this could be so
通过种植棉花这样简单的事情而发生了戏剧性的变化 dramatically altered by something as simple as growing cotton
为了我们的衣服。 for our clothes.
我认为你不明白情况的严重性 I don't think you understand the enormity of the situation
直到你来了。它影响了一切。 until you're here. It's affected everything.
它影响了失业，这是一场公共卫生危机， It's affected unemployment, it's been a public health crisis,
它影响天气，影响季节。 it affects the weather, it's affected the seasons.
我觉得我们明白塑料对地球的影响， And I feel like we understand what plastic does to the Earth,
例如。我们每天都有这样的食物，这是理所当然的。 for example. We're fed that every day and rightly so.
但我知道棉花有能力做到这一点吗？ But did I know that cotton was capable of this?
我当然没有。 Course I didn't.
我完全不知道。 I had no idea.
在我离开之前，塞里克还有最后一件事要给我看。 Before I leave, Cerrick has one last thing to show me.
塞里克！ Cerrick!
看看这个。看起来太棒了！ Look at this. Looks amazing!
这是北咸海。 This is the North Aral Sea.
北咸海。 North Aral Sea.
这就是我们可以设法拯救的海洋部分。 That's the part of the sea we could manage to save.
十年前，哈萨克斯坦政府 Ten years ago, the Kazakh government
在咸海最狭窄的地方建了一座水坝。 built a dam across the narrowest part of the Aral Sea.
它捕捉到了从河里流入大海的水的进食 It caught the water entering the sea from the river feeding
它在哈萨克一方。 it on the Kazakh side.
多年来，海洋的北部已经开始回归。 Over the years, the north part of the sea has started to return.
它只是那里的一小部分，但它是有意义的。 It's only a small fraction of what was there, but it's something.
太不可思议了。美丽的景象。 It's incredible. A lovely sight.
在建坝之前，最近的水点 Before building the dam, the nearest point of the water
到镇上距离阿拉尔60公里。 to town was 60km away from Aral.
但现在只有20公里。 But now it's only 20km.
它爬回来了。 It's crawling back.
是啊。 Yes.
这只是一个非常美丽的景象。 It's just a really beautiful sight.
它只是表明，如果给大自然一个机会， It just goes to show, that if nature is given a chance,
它真的可以自我恢复。 it really can restore itself.
很美，不是吗？非常平静。 It's beautiful, isn't it? It's very peaceful.
安静。你可以听到波浪的声音。 Quiet. You can hear the sound of waves.
我在这里看到的东西真的击中了要害。 What I've seen here really has hit home.
令人难以置信的是，乌兹别克斯坦只是第八大 Unbelievably, Uzbekistan is only the eighth largest
棉花的生产者。 producer of cotton.
全世界数以百万计的人被认为正在遭受痛苦 Millions of people worldwide are thought to be suffering
由于严重的缺水和健康问题 from serious water shortages and health problems as a result
棉花产量。 of cotton production.
我回到英国了，我在去见他的路上 I'm back in the UK, and I'm on my way to meet
露西·西格尔又来了 Lucy Siegle again, to find
弄清楚这是怎么回事，谁该受责备。 out how this could be happening and who's to blame.
里面很诱人。 It's quite seductive in there.
任何人离开这里都不买任何东西，这是一个奇迹。 It's a miracle that anyone comes out of here without buying anything.
里面的一切都像消费猫薄荷。 Everything in there is like consumer catnip.
露西说要理解谁是罪魁祸首，我们应该 Lucy says to understand who's to blame, we should
看看快速时尚的现象，它诱使我们购买 look at the phenomena of fast fashion, which lures us into buying
衣服比我们需要的多。 more clothes than we need.
快速时尚是一种为我们带来衣服的生产系统 Fast fashion is a production system that brings us clothes
音量很大。 at intense volume.
因此，快速时尚背后的引擎，当然是， So the engines behind fast fashion are, of course,
商业街上我们已经熟悉的品牌。 the brands on the high street that we're already familiar with.
他们的商业模式基本上是把服装当作一种快餐 Their business model basically treats clothing as if it's a fast
移动消费品。 moving consumer good.
所以，我们过去有秋，冬，春，夏的收藏品。 So, we used to have autumn, winter, spring, summer collections.
我们现在每年有52个以上的收藏品。 We now have 52 plus collections a year.
有些品牌每周最多有两三个系列。 Some brands are up to two or three collections a week.
如果你现在不买，下次就买不到了 If you don't buy it now, you won't get it next time
因为他们不会重新进货。 because they don't restock.
我们现在内心有一种欲望，就是我们必须现在就消费它。 Within us now is this desire that we have to consume it now.
一切都是关于现在，当它流行的时候， It's all about getting it right now, while it's on trend,
当它在商店里的时候。 while it's in-store.
我不认为公众意识到 I don't think that the general public realise
我们也是问题的一部分。 that we are also part of the problem.
我想看看当我展示给他们看时他们会有什么反应。 I want to see how they react when I show them.
周六早上在格拉斯哥。 Saturday morning in Glasgow.
我在英国最繁忙的购物街之一 I'm on one of Britain's busiest shopping streets to set
上演一场演示会。 up a demonstration.
我想向公众展示种植棉花需要多少水。 I want to show the public how much water it can take to grow cotton.
太令人震惊了，我不得不拿到2万2千升的价值 It's so shocking that I've had to get 22,000 litres' worth
工业大小的水容器来可视化它。 of industrial-sized water containers to visualise it.
我不知道种棉花了多少水 I didn't realise how much water went into growing the cotton
在对衣服进行任何其他操作之前。 before anything else has been done to the garment.
所以今天我想和购物者进行一次对话。 So I want to have a conversation with shoppers today.
我要告诉他们需要多少水才能生长 I'm going to show them how much water it could take to grow
他们购物袋里的棉花。 the cotton in their shopping bags.
你认为做那些牛仔裤需要多少水？ How much water do you think is required to make those jeans?
500？ 500?
500雇佣？ 500 Hires?
这一半？是啊。 So half of this? Yeah.
它可能需要1，000，2，000， It could have taken up to 1,000, 2,000,
三千，四千，五千. 3,000, 4,000, 5,000...
15，523 15,523.
不可能！不！ No way! No!
这里，就像一件普通的衬衫和一条牛仔裤。对吧？ Here, there's just like a regular shirt and a pair of jeans. Right?
很可能需要19分钟， It's likely that it could have taken up to 19,
‘20，20，500雇用。 '20, 20,500 Hires.
怎么了？对不起，这真的让我大吃一惊！ What? Sorry, that's actually blown my mind!
一次小小的购物之旅很快就会积少成多。三.。 And a little shopping trip can quickly add up. Three...
我看你今天早上很有成效。 You've had a productive morning, I see.
算是吧。我们来做个鼻子。 Sort of, yes. Let's have a nose.
实际上，在这种情况下，我已经用完了容器。 And actually, in this instance I've ran out of containers.
35618升 35,618 litres.
这大约相当于一个人49年的饮用水。 That's about 49 years' worth of drinking water for one person.
那是.。我是说，生气。 That's... I mean, mad.
很容易就能买到衣服。 There is such an ease of access to clothes.
90%的时间，你只是为了买它而买它。 90% of the time, you're just buying it for the sake of buying it.
我大概有一半 I've got probably like half
衣柜里都是我没碰过的衣服。 a wardrobe full of clothes that I've not touched.
但它就是藏在地毯下面。 But it's just so hidden under the carpet.
一点也不明显。 It's not in plain sight at all.
所以，我很高兴我被阻止了，我不得不说。 So, I'm glad that I've been stopped, I have to say.
很抱歉我很生气。但是.。 I'm sorry to get upset. But...
是啊。告诉我为什么你对这个事实如此感情用事？ Yeah. Tell me why you're so emotional about that fact?
因为我知道有些人很难弄到水， Because I know people that are struggling to get water,
用来喝水或洗涤或做饭 for drink or to wash or cook
我们用它来做这个。 and we are using it for making this.
好极了。我毁了每个人的星期六！ Perfect. I've ruined everyone's Saturday!
但你知道吗，这是真的，和我想象的一模一样。 But you know what, it's true and it's exactly what I imagined.
并不是人们不在乎 It's not that people don't care,
而是我们不知道。 it's that we don't know.
我们不知道。 We're not informed.
快速时尚造成的损害并不仅限于棉花。 The damage caused by fast fashion isn't confined to cotton.
这个行业也是这里的一个巨大的污染源。 The industry is also a huge source of pollution here.
每年有30万吨服装被倾倒在垃圾填埋场。 300,000 tonnes of clothing are dumped in landfill every year.
从合成衣服上洗出来的微纤维现在 And microfibres washed out of synthetic clothes are now
我们的河流和海洋中塑料污染的一个重要原因。 a significant cause of plastic pollution in our rivers and oceans.
你好，宝贝！你不打声招呼吗？我回家了。 Hello, babe! Are you not saying hello? I'm back home.
我要联系大服装品牌 I'm going to contact the big clothing brands to get
对我的发现的解释。 an explanation for my discoveries.
我认为从Primark开始是明智的，因为他们太庞大了。 I think it's wise to start with Primark because they are so huge.
所以，你是说Primark就是不和广播公司说话？ So, you're saying that Primark just don't talk to broadcasters?
其他大品牌也不是特别主动。 Other big brands weren't particularly forthcoming, either.
想成为一名公关经理.。 Fancy being a communications manager...
.不回复电子邮件也不接电话 ...and not replying to an e-mail and not picking up the phone.
当沟通是你的工作时。 When it's your job to communicate.
如果我是一个名人说我想成为竞选的先锋呢？ What if I was a celeb saying I wanted to front the campaign?
很抱歉，用户的邮箱无法接受更多邮件。 Sorry, but the user's mailbox can't accept more messages.
我甚至不能留言。 I can't even leave a message.
发生错误。 An error has occurred.
我在这里没有任何进展。 I'm not getting anywhere here.
谢谢你。拜拜。 Thank you. Bye.
但我知道在哪里我可能会得到答案。 But I know somewhere where I might get answers.
所以我刚刚抵达哥本哈根。 So I have just landed in Copenhagen.
我发现有一个峰会，它是巨大的。 I found out that there is this summit and it's huge.
它专注于时尚界的可持续发展。 It's focusing on sustainability in fashion.
你知道，在过去的一个月里，我不停地发电子邮件 You know, over the past month, I'm back and forth with e-mails
到处打几个电话。 and a couple of phone calls here and there.
但总的来说，没有人真正说过， But on the whole, no-one has really said,
“是的，我们非常想坐下来聊聊。” "Yeah, we're desperate to sit down and have a chat."
所以我知道会有代表 So I know that there are going to be representatives
在这次峰会上。 at this summit.
所以我不会有攻击性。 So I'm not going in aggressive.
我只想说，“听着，我在这里，我很乐意， I just want to say, "look, I'm here and I would love,
“爱，爱和你说话。” "love, love to talk to you."
哥本哈根时尚峰会 The Copenhagen Fashion Summit
吸引了一些时尚界最大的品牌。 attracts some of fashion's biggest brands.
他们来这里学习可持续发展。 They come here to learn about sustainability.
学习如何让时装业 To learn how to make the fashion industry
对地球的破坏更小。 less damaging to the planet.
您将了解为什么可持续发展已成为战略优先事项 You will learn why sustainability has been made a strategic priority
在他们的组织中。 in their organisations.
设计的许多最新计划 Many of the latest initiatives designed
使行业更加绿色，在这里都有特色。 to make the industry greener are featured here.
那是水吗？我是说，他们会被撕成碎片， Is that water? I mean, they'd be torn to pieces,
如果有很多瓶装水，他们不会吗？ wouldn't they, if there was loads of bottled water?
这地方太完美了。 This place is perfect.
当然这里的品牌代表会同意和我说话。 Surely the brand representatives here will agree to speak to me.
我已经成功地安排了ASOS的面试。 I've already succeeded in lining up an interview with ASOS.
他们是世界上最大的在线快时尚零售商之一。 They're one of the biggest online fast fashion retailers in the world.
去年销售额接近20亿英镑。 With sales of nearly £2 billion last year.
他们声称非常重视可持续发展。 They claim to take sustainability very seriously.
所以，ASOS今天早上给我们发了一封电子邮件，开头是， So, ASOS have e-mailed us this morning and it starts with,
“我不想一大早就告诉你坏消息， "I hate to be the bearer of bad news so early in the morning,
“但恐怕我们不得不恭敬地拒绝 "but I'm afraid we're going to have to respectfully decline
“今天有机会和你说话。 "the opportunity to speak with you today.
“我们对迟到的通知表示歉意，但一如既往， "We apologise for the late notice but, as ever,
“我们感谢您为我们着想。我们祝您好运。” "we appreciate you thinking of us. We wish you the best of luck."
啦.。所以我不知道是什么改变了。 La-la-la-la... So I don't know what's changed.
所以，我应该在ASOS面试的那位女士 So, the lady that I was supposed to be interviewing from ASOS
就是那边那个女人。 is the woman over there.
所以我只需要去试着抓住她。 So I need to just go and try and catch her.
我们已经联系了很多品牌， We've reached out to numerous brands,
所以这只是关于理解为什么。 so it's just about understanding why.
谢谢你。 Thank you.
他们不愿意说话，这看起来很了不起。 It just looks remarkable that they're not willing to talk.
我真的不明白为什么他们一开始就答应了 I don't really understand why they said yes initially
然后他们改变了主意。 and then they changed their minds.
但我不会放弃的。 But I'm not giving up.
这里还有很多其他品牌。 There are plenty of other brands here.
这就是在这里代表Primark的人。 So, this is the guy who is here representing Primark.
所以我需要抓住他。 So I need to catch him.
Primark已经告诉我他们一般不接受采访 Primark already told me they don't generally give interviews
但我想我应该再给他们一次机会。 to the press, but I thought I'd give them another go.
你知道吗？对你说实话， Do you know what? To be totally honest with you,
感觉就像是一个巨大的耻辱，因为Primark是如此受欢迎的背影 it just feels like such a huge shame because Primark is so popular back
在国内，你在这里参加一个关注可持续发展的峰会， at home and you are here at a summit focusing on sustainability,
我们正在制作一部关于同样事情的纪录片。 and we're making a documentary about the very same thing.
你在这里有代表，我们无可奉告。对不起。 And you have representatives here and we can't comment. Sorry.
但我不得不拒绝。对不起，史黛西。 But I have to decline. Sorry, Stacey.
好吧。好吧，听着，谢谢你告诉我 All right. Well, listen, thank you for telling me
你不愿意说话。谢谢。谢谢你。 that you're not willing to talk. Thanks. Thank you.
哦，Primark！你知道，对我来说，这真的很简单。 Oh, Primark! You know, for me, it's really straightforward.
他们是来讨论可持续发展的， They're here to talk about sustainability,
我是来谈可持续发展的。 I'm here to talk about sustainability.
什么问题？ What's the issue?
如果你真的相信你所说的， If you truly believe in what you're saying,
告诉我，启发我，教育我。 tell me, enlighten me, educate me.
但我想我没有一个大品牌需要保护。 But I suppose I haven't got a huge brand to protect.
这些人中的一些人。 And some of these people have.
这次峰会标志着这个行业的一些人正在努力 This summit is a sign that some in this industry are working
去清理时尚。 to clean up fashion.
但我觉得品牌拒绝和我说话让它看起来 But I felt that the brands' refusal to talk to me made it look
好像他们有什么要隐瞒的。 like they had something to hide.
然而，我确实取得了一些成功。 I do, however, have some success.
我知道这对每个人的底线都很好，但如果十个人中有六个 I know it's great for everyone's bottom-line, but if six out of ten
我们每年生产的服装最终都会被填埋或焚烧 garments that we produce every year end up in a landfill or incinerator
在生产的第一年内，我们应该做这六个吗？ within the first year of production, should we have made those six?
保罗·迪林杰(Paul Dillinger)是李维斯(Levi‘s)的创新主管。 Paul Dillinger is the head of innovation at Levi's.
一家价值50亿美元的公司，建立在销售棉质服装的基础上。 A five billion dollar company that's built on selling cotton clothes.
棉花能持续吗？ Can cotton ever be sustainable?
我们正在研究一种解决方案，用旧衣服， We're working on a solution that takes old garments,
用化学方法解构它们，并把它们变成一种新的纤维 chemically deconstructs, them and turns them into a new fibre
感觉，看起来和行为都像棉花。 that feels, looks and behaves like cotton.
令人印象深刻。零水击。真是令人印象深刻。 That's impressive. Zero water impact. That's really impressive.
与此同时，我们正在尽我们所能 In the meantime, we're doing everything we can
在我们的整理中使用较少的水。 to use less water in our finishing.
当我们找到使用更少水的方法时， And when we figure out a way to use less water,
我们和每个人分享。 we share it with everyone.
我们使我们所有的专有配方开源。 We make all of our proprietary formulations open source.
因为如果你想出了节约用水的方法 Because if you figure out how to save water
你不告诉别人，你就是个混蛋！ and you don't tell people about it, you're kind of a jerk!
告诉我为什么这一切都花了这么长时间。 Tell me why all of this has taken so long.
这是一个大行业，世界上最大的行业之一- This is a big industry, one of the biggest in the world -
如此广泛的分散以至于一个影响深远的变化 so broadly decentralised that an affecting change
几乎是不可能的。 is very nearly impossible.
特别是当食欲不想发生变化的时候。 Especially when the appetite doesn't want change to happen.
所以必须有一个监管解决方案，那就是 So there will have to be a regulatory solution and that's
必须发生，因为它就是必须发生。 going to have to happen, because it simply has to.
因为没有足够的水让它不能。 Because there just isn't enough water for it not to.
与一个大品牌进行坦率的对话是令人振奋的 It's encouraging to have a frank conversation with a big brand
那就是努力变得更有责任感。 that is trying to be more responsible.
但令人担忧的是，唯一可以修复的方法 But it's worrying to hear that the only way to fix
这个问题就是引入新的法律来迫使这个行业改变。 this problem is to bring in new laws to force the industry to change.
我回到英国，我要去见一个说棉花的人 I'm back in Britain and I'm going to see someone who says cotton
只是时尚污染问题的一部分。 is only one part of fashion's pollution problem.
她想告诉我时尚界另一个有害的一面 She wants to tell me about another damaging side to the fashion
我不知道的行业。 industry that I had no idea about.
我认为我们需要看到更多的裙子，因为它看起来 I think we need to see more of the dress because it looks
否则有点裸体。 a bit naked otherwise.
Safia Minney是可持续时尚的先驱 Safia Minney is a pioneer in sustainable fashion
她现在是一款环保鞋的总经理 and she is now the managing director of an eco-friendly shoe
公司叫博祖。 company called Po-Zu.
她亲眼目睹了制造服装所涉及的内容 She has seen first-hand what's involved in manufacturing clothes
快时尚连锁店。 for fast fashion chains.
所以，制作衣服和鞋子的过程需要数千人 So, the process of making clothes and shoes requires thousands
在每一个过程中都含有剧毒的化学物质 of very toxic chemicals through every process
制造厂的。 of the manufacture.
这对环境的破坏是如此的令人难以置信 Which is just so incredibly damaging to the environment
以及人类健康。 and to human health.
Safia说她开始设置环保标签， Safia says she started setting up eco-friendly labels,
在发现大品牌污染了国家之后 after discovering that the big brands were polluting the countries
我们大部分的衣服都是在那里做的。 where most of our clothes are made.
在过去，我们通过制造污染了我们的国家 In the past we've polluted our country by making
衣服和鞋子。 clothes and footwear.
我们现在所做的是 And what we've done now is we have
出口了那个，我们基本上有.。 exported that and we have basically...
我们忽略了我们签署的规则和法律 We ignore the rules and laws that we have signed
我们只是在破坏这些国家的环境， up to, and we're just destroying the environment in those countries,
我们真的需要拆除这个巨大的有毒物质炸弹 and we need to really unpick this huge bomb of toxic substance
这确实拖累了发展中国家。 that is really weighing the developing world down.
为什么他们的行为如此不负责任？ Why are they behaving so irresponsibly?
我认为这是价格的持续下降。 I think it's the constant downward spiral in terms of price.
不承担责任的是买家和公司 It's buyers and companies that are not taking responsibility
支付一笔可观的费用，绝对确保化学品 to pay a decent amount, to be absolutely sure that chemicals
不是高度危险的使用。 that are not highly hazardous are used.
所以我认为整个系统功能失调 And so I think there is this whole dysfunctional system
这是关于以最低的成本得到一些东西， which is about getting something at the cheapest cost,
无论增量成本，无论人力成本。 whatever the incremental cost, whatever the human cost.
越快越好。把它带回大街上。 As fast as possible. And bringing it back to the high street.
听起来很糟糕，所以我要去看看。 It sounds awful so I'm going to take a look.
为了理解到底发生了什么， To understand what's actually going on,
我要去印度尼西亚。 I'm heading to Indonesia.
这是亚洲许多发展中国家之一 This is one of many developing countries across Asia
已经成为国际服装生产中心。 that have become international hubs for clothes production.
他们向世界各地出口纺织品。 And they export textiles around the world.
像Primark，H&M和Gap这样的商业街品牌 High street brands like Primark, H&M and Gap
也在这里制造服装。 also manufacture clothes here.
很可能我们中的很多人都穿着 And it's likely that many of us wear something
来自这个国家。 that has come from this country.
贾马尔，你好吗？嗨，我很好。史黛西 Jamal, how are you? Hi, I'm good. Stacey,
很高兴在这里见到你。我也是。 nice to meet you here. Likewise.
贾马尔是一名记者，他带我去见了一个人 Jamal is a journalist who has taken me to meet someone
谁来给我展示一下 who is going to show me the impact
纺织制造业在这里。 that textile manufacturing is having here.
嘿！很高兴见到你。这是史黛西。 Hey! Nice to meet you. This is Stacey.
你好吗，阿迪？我很好。 How are you, Adi? I am fine.
很高兴见到你，非常感谢你抽出时间。 Nice to see you, thank you so much for your time.
阿迪领导了一个积极分子的集体，为阻止纺织品而斗争。 Adi leads a collective of activists fighting to stop the textile
工业从污染工业 industry from polluting one
印度尼西亚最重要的河流，Citarum。 of Indonesia's most important rivers, the Citarum.
他们说该地区有数百家工厂， They say that hundreds of factories in the area,
包括一些与商业街品牌有关的品牌， including some connected to high street brands,
一直把这条河当作下水道。 have been using the river as a sewer.
你好。 Hello.
我们到了。 Here we are.
基本上，我在这里最多几分钟， Basically, I've been out here a couple of minutes max,
老实说，你已经可以看到有两个管道 honestly, and already you can see there is two pipes
大量涌出的水。 churning out water.
所以这里的水是紫色的。直流到河里。 So over here the water is purple. Flowing straight into the river.
这里好像有个泡沫。 And over here there seems to be like a foam.
有什么问题吗？ What's the problem?
好的，让我们让开，因为我们已经很匆忙了 OK, let's move out of the way because we have been hurried
因为他们说，“看，那边有闭路电视。” on because they said, "Look, there is CCTV over there."
如果工厂看到你带着相机在这里， And if the factories see that you are here with a camera,
他们会停止他们通常在做的事情。 they'll stop what they're usually doing.
我们担心他们会打电话给沿河的其他工厂 We're worried that they'll call other factories along the river
警告他们我们在这里。 to warn them that we're here.
好的，我可以走了。 Right, I'm good to go.
阿迪要带我乘船环游当地的水道给我看 Adi is taking me on a boat trip round the local waterways to show me
问题有多严重。 how bad the problem is.
阿迪，跟我说说你过去的关系 Adi, tell me a bit about your passing relationship
和河边。 with the river.
Citarum仍然是数百万人的重要水源。 The Citarum is still a vital source of water for millions of people.
但现在它已经成为一个全国性的话题。 But now it's become a national talking point.
它被描述为世界上污染最严重的河流。 It's been described as the most polluted river in the world.
值得注意的是，军队已经被派去清理一切。 Remarkably, the army have been sent to clean it all up.
所以他们已经在这里几个月了，他们已经 So they've been here for a couple of months now and they have made
垃圾，垃圾方面的进展。 progress in terms of the rubbish, the trash.
但是隐藏的威胁是有毒的化学物质。 But the hidden threats are the toxic chemicals.
阿迪说，即使军队的存在也没有停止 Adi says even the presence of the army hasn't stopped
纺织厂。 the textile factories.
现在许多人在晚上倾倒废物。 Many now dump their waste at night.
对其他人来说，一切照旧。 For others, it's business as usual.
我们正在接近一个管道。 We are approaching one pipe.
烟斗？是啊。 A Pipe? Yeah.
从其中一家工厂？是啊。 From one of the factories? Yeah.
纺织厂？是啊。 Textile factories? Yeah.
这个管子很有趣因为它在水下 This pipe's interesting because it's underwater,
他们说他们相信他们是故意这样做的 and they say they believe they have done that deliberately
这样他们就不会注意到了。 so they wouldn't notice it.
但你可以看到它在冒泡，它在起泡。 But you can see it's fizzing, it's frothing.
看，你可以看到有一条清晰的线。 Look, you can see there is like a clear line.
我们很快又遇到了另一次泄漏。漆黑一片。 We soon come across another spill. It's pitch-black.
出来的水要黑得多，还有水蒸气 The water coming out is much, much darker and there is steam
出来了。 coming off it.
我们走近了取样品进行测试。 We move closer to take a sample for testing.
只是有太多的东西出来了。 There's just so much of it coming out.
你能感觉到它散发出的热量。 You can feel the heat coming off it.
气味和热量.。 The smell and the heat...
很难解释，不是吗，贾马尔？ It's hard to explain, isn't it, Jamal?
这个地区有400多家工厂。 There are over 400 factories in this area.
阿迪说，许多人每天都会释放数百种有毒物质 And Adi says many release hundreds of toxic spills every day
穿过该地区的水道。 into waterways across the region.
他们中的大多数最终都在Citarum。 Most of them end up in the Citarum.
有多少工厂在使用这条隧道？ How many factories are using this tunnel?
这就是为什么气味如此强烈？是啊。 That's why the smell is so strong? Yes.
这对河流造成损害的证据随处可见。 Evidence of the damage this is doing to the river can be seen everywhere.
水似乎在沸腾。 The water seems to be boiling.
你认为这是为什么？ Why do you imagine that is?
是只死鸟。 It's a dead bird.
哦，天哪，河里有只死的漂浮的老鼠。 Oh, my God, there's a dead, floating rat in the river.
通常很难知道污染是什么时候造成的 It's often hard to know when pollution is caused
由西方品牌，因为许多人不会透露名单 by Western brands, as many won't disclose the list
供应它们的工厂。 of factories supplying them.
但即使是商业街品牌也有足够的责任感 But even high street brands responsible enough
命名他们的供应商，如H&M和Gap， to name their suppliers, such as H&M and Gap,
与这里的公司有关联， have been linked to companies here,
被指控污染。 that have been accused of polluting.
关键是，对我来说这就像是一场彻底的灾难。 The point is, to me this feels like a complete catastrophe.
值得记住的是印尼， And it's worth bearing in mind that Indonesia,
在制造业方面，甚至不是全球前五名。 in terms of manufacturing, isn't even top five, globally.
所以看到这是一个巨大问题的一部分 So to see that this is part of an enormous problem
让你充满恐惧。 fills you with dread.
另一件令人震惊的事情是人们生活在一起 Another shocking thing is that people live along
这条河的河岸，很多用 this river's banks, and many use
未经处理的河水几乎满足了他们所有的日常需要。 untreated river water for almost all of their daily needs.
你叫什么名字？恰恰。恰恰，很高兴认识你。 What's your name? Cha Cha. Cha Cha, nice to meet you.
这看起来很痛，你的脖子看起来很痛。 This looks sore, your neck looks sore.
你用同样的水给宝宝洗澡吗？ And do you use that same water to bath your baby?
这里的许多人抱怨他们的医生不能治疗的皮肤问题。 Many here complain of skin problems that their doctors can't treat.
看看这个。 Look at that.
对于住在工厂附近的人来说， And for the people who live closer to the factories,
生活是无法忍受的。 life can be unbearable.
臭死了。绝对臭死了。 It stinks. It absolutely stinks.
我无法告诉你它有多难闻。 I can't tell you how bad it smells.
老实说，我向你保证，这太糟糕了。 Honestly, I promise you, it's so bad.
这，对我来说，这完全是无耻的。 This, to me, this is utterly outrageous.
我是说，你可以看到到处都是孩子。 I mean, you can see there's kids everywhere.
当你认为这些家庭在这里洗衣服时， When you think these families are washing their clothes here,
他们可能在这水里准备食物。 they're probably preparing food in this water.
在我的正后方有一片稻田。 There is a rice field directly behind me.
我是说，每个人都有权喝干净的水吗？ I mean, surely everyone is entitled to clean water?
这是一项基本的人权。 That's like a basic human right.
我想知道水里有什么。 I want to know what's in the water.
以及长期暴露于它会有什么作用。 And what long-term exposure to it will do.
我是史黛西，你好吗？你好吗？ I'm Stacey, how are you? How are you?
很高兴见到你。 Nice to see you.
我能看看你的实验室吗？是啊。 Am I able to see your laboratory? Yeah.
我有东西给你。 I've got something for you.
我已经把我的样本带到了Padjadjaran大学。 I've brought my sample to the University of Padjadjaran.
这是用来分析的。 This is for analysis.
Sunardi医生是一位环境毒理学家 Doctor Sunardi is an environmental toxicologist who has tested
以前的河水。 the river water before.
你的发现是什么？ What have been your findings?
砒霜？是的，砒霜。 Arsenic? Yeah, arsenic.
长期接触这些物质可以 Long-term exposure to these substances can
导致神经问题。 cause neurological problems.
告诉我水银能对一个人做什么。 Tell me what mercury can do to a human being.
铅的能力是什么？ And what is lead capable of?
这些是严肃的，改变生活的， These are serious, serious, life-changing,
潜在的后果？ potentially, consequences?
是啊。 Yes.
你相信有多少人 How many people do you believe
暴露在水中 are exposed to the water
从河里？ from the river?
那真的很可怕。 That's really frightening.
是的，是的。 Yes, yes.
真让人心碎。 That is heartbreaking.
你完全正确。 You're totally right.
2800万人依赖Citarum的水和食物 28 million people rely on the Citarum's water and eat food
从用它灌溉的田地里长出来的。 grown from fields irrigated with it.
许多人现在都有接触这些毒素的风险。 Many are now at risk of exposure to these toxins.
对于当地人来说，没有办法从这个有毒的烂摊子中逃脱。 For locals, there is no escape from this toxic mess.
但是阿迪和他的积极分子团队并没有放弃。 But Adi and his team of activists haven't given up.
他们已经开始对工厂采取直接行动。 They've started taking direct action against the factories.
所以，这里的管道，他们用混凝土堵住了它。 So, this pipe here, they blocked it with concrete.
你试图和这家工厂接触但他们一直无视你？ And you tried to engage with this factory but they kept ignoring you?
是啊。 Yeah.
他们现在已经堵住了这条河上的几条管道。 They've now blocked several pipes along this river.
他们的反应如何？ And what has their response been?
他们到底在说什么？ What exactly are they saying?
他们会让你消失。听起来真的很阴险。 They'll make you disappear. That sounds really sinister.
你觉得他们是认真的吗？是啊。 Do you think they're serious? Yeah.
我想让整个行业对我的发现负责。 I want to take the industry to task over what I found.
令人惊讶的是，纺织制造商的主席 Surprisingly, the chairman of the Textile Manufacturers
协会同意见我。 Association agrees to meet me.
它是一个机构，代表着大多数制造服装的公司 It's a body that represents most of the companies who make clothing
在这个地区。 in this region.
我试着保持乐观 I'm trying to stay optimistic,
但这些对话往往是单向的。 but often these conversations go one way.
这就是公关聊天。 And that's PR chat.
嘿嘿。 Hey.
你好吗？我是史黛西。 How are you? I'm Stacey.
非常感谢。你是主席。是啊。 Thank you so much. You're the chairman. Yes.
所以你完全可以向我解释为什么纺织 So you're perfectly placed to explain to me why textile
工厂仍在倾倒有毒化学品 factories are still dumping toxic chemicals into
一条已经被污染的河流。 an already polluted river.
执法部门。是啊。太丢脸了。 Law enforcement. Yeah. That's a disgrace.
你觉得受够了吗？是啊。 You feel that fed up? Yeah.
所以，印尼，你们出口很多。 So, Indonesia, you export a lot.
西方公司能做些什么来纠正错误呢？ What can the Western companies do to put things right?
但他们是少数？ But they are the minority?
从外行的角度来看，这是一个多大的问题？ How big a problem is this in layman's terms?
地球已经消失了。是啊。 The planet is gone. Yeah.
不仅仅是印度尼西亚。 It's not just Indonesia.
这里的问题可以在其他国家的服装生产中找到。 The problems here can be found in other countries producing clothes.
从中国到孟加拉国。 From China to Bangladesh.
而纺织业现在正在加剧一场日益严重的危机 And the textile industry is now contributing to a growing crisis
世界各地的淡水短缺可能很快就会 of fresh water shortages around the world that could soon
影响我们所有人。 affect us all.
这些年来我看到了很多的破坏。 I have seen lots of devastation over the years.
这里的不同之处在于问题的严重性。 What's different here is the sheer enormity of the problem.
你知道，正在发生的事情的规模绝对是惊人的。 You know, the scale of what's going on is just absolutely breathtaking.
很难想象我穿的衣服会导致 It's hard to think that the clothes I'm wearing could be causing
太多伤害了。 so much damage.
但我现在可以看到这个行业 But I can now see how this industry
已经成为对地球的威胁。 has become such a threat to the planet.
嗨，乔治娜，我叫史黛西·杜利。 Hi, Georgina, my name is Stacey Dooley.
我想你已经和我的一些同事谈过了？ I think you've been speaking to some of my colleagues?
我回到了英国，我正试图再次说服零售商 I'm back in Britain and I'm trying to persuade the retailers again
跟我谈谈这个问题。 to talk to me about this issue.
他们关心的是什么？ And what are their concerns?
再见！ Bye!
我接触过很多品牌。 I've reached out to numerous brands.
他们都拒绝了。 All of them have said no.
所以，Zara，不。 So, Zara, no.
阿索，不。 ASOS, no.
M&S，不 M&S, no.
季风，不。 Monsoon, no.
下一个，不。 Next, no.
漂亮的小东西，“抱歉，我们要走了 Pretty Little Thing, "Apologies, we're going to leave
“这是暂时的”河岛，不。 "this one for now." River Island, no.
“非常感谢你把这个发给我。” "Thank you so much for sending this through."
“然而，乔治将拒绝参加这一场合。” "However, George will decline to take part on this occasion."
我认为这是不可原谅的，我认为这是懒惰， I think it's inexcusable, I think it's lazy,
我觉得是.。 I think it's...
我觉得这很可怕 I think it's horrendous,
我觉得很糟糕，我觉得 I think it's awful, and I think
这表明许多这样的组织并不关心 it suggests that lots of these organisations don't care
关于这些家庭的牺牲 about the sacrifices that these families all
世界各地都在制造。 around the world are making.
大品牌不愿和我说话，所以我们已经接近了 The big brands won't speak to me, so we've approached
负责环境事务的国务卿迈克尔·戈夫。 the Secretary of State for the Environment, Michael Gove.
这个演讲表明他对 This speech suggests he's passionate about
保护地球。 protecting the planet.
通过加强环境保护，我们可以 By enhancing environmental protection, we can hand
在我们的星球上，更清洁的空气，更绿色，更健康的状态， on our planet, and cleaner air greener and a healthier state,
传给下一代。 to the next generation.
这是我们的责任。 That is our responsibility.
我们的职责。 Our duty.
我们的任务。 Our mission.
戈夫拒绝了我们的采访请求。 Gove turned down our request for an interview.
但他的办公室刚刚就这个问题发表了正式声明 But his office has just given an official statement on the issue
回答我们的问题。 in response to our questions.
你知道吗，到目前为止我和每个人都说过话， You know, everyone I've spoken to up until this point,
如果他们真的投资了， if they're genuinely invested,
他们说我们需要研究立法。 they've said we need to look at legislation.
所以我们向他们提出了这些非常明确的问题。 So we put these very clear questions to them.
国务卿是否意识到环境问题的严重程度 Is the Secretary of State aware of the extent of the environmental
全球时装业造成的影响？ impact caused by the global fashion industry?
他会否考虑立法保护 Would he consider introducing legislation to protect
通过让服装品牌更负责任来保护环境 the environment by making clothing brands more responsible
他们的供应链对环境的影响？ for the environmental impacts of their supply chains?
这是一位发言人发来的。 This is from a spokesperson.
“我们对任何减少废物影响的想法都很感兴趣 "We are interested in any ideas to reduce the impact of waste
“对我们的海洋和更广阔的环境。 "on our oceans and wider environment.
“我们已经减少了塑料袋和微珠的废物。 "We have already cut waste from plastic bags and microbeads.
“我们也在对塑料瓶采取行动， "And we're also taking action on plastic bottles,
“吸管，搅拌器和棉花蕾。 "straws, stirrers and cotton buds.
“扔掉的衣服数量正在下降，我们正在资助 "The amount of clothing thrown away is falling, and we are funding
“研究处理微型塑料的新方法。 "research into new ways to deal with microplastics.
“但还有更多事情要做。” "But there is more to do."
不可能。 That can't be it.
这就是全部吗？ Is that the whole thing?
他们在谈论塑料袋。 They're talking about plastic bags.
当胶片与塑料袋无关时。 When the film is nothing to do with plastic bags.
你知道这件事最令人沮丧的是什么吗？ You know what's frustrating about this?
太不屑一顾了。 It's so dismissive.
就像，“这里有三句话，我们要喂你。” It's like, "Here are three sentences that we're going to feed you."
这几乎就像是在侮辱我们的智力 It's almost like it's insulting our intelligence, to think
我们会很感激，或者，你知道的. that we are going to be grateful or, you know...
.对这个答复印象深刻 ...impressed with this reply.
因为这不能告诉我们任何事情，它不能回答 Because that doesn't tell us anything, it doesn't answer
这些问题中的任何一个。 any of those questions.
这些是负责人。 And these are the people in charge.
大品牌和政府都没有给我答案。 The big brands and the Government aren't giving me answers.
所以我要看看问题的另一部分。 So I'm going to look at another part of the problem.
我们的消费。 Our consumption.
我已经找到了完美的消费者群体，可以与之交谈。 And I've found the perfect group of consumers to talk to.
我是个购物狂，总是看起来 I'm a shopaholic and always just seem
拥有大量的衣服。 to have copious amounts of clothing.
这些受欢迎的在线视频是由有影响力的人制作的。 These popular online videos are made by influencers.
今天将会是一个相当大的Zara收获。 Today is going to be a rather large Zara haul.
他们之所以这么叫是因为他们有强大的影响力 They're called that because they have a powerful influence
他们在社交媒体上的关注者的购物习惯。 over the shopping habits of their followers on social media.
在下面的描述框中，您将找到链接 Down below in the description box you will find the link
这批货中的每一样东西。 for everything featured within this haul.
基本上，他们走在大街上， Basically, they go down the high street,
他们购买大量的装备或者给他们大量的装备 they buy loads of gear or they're given loads of gear
被大品牌。 by the big brands.
他们回到家，在自己的卧室里，试穿一切，按照自己的方式设计 They go home, in their bedroom, try it all on, style it the way
他们想要。 that they want to.
然后他们把它发布到网上。 And then they post that online.
我的意思是，这些人中的一些人有数百万的追随者。 I mean, some of these people have millions of followers.
然后他们冲出去买同样的东西。 And then they rush out to buy the same thing.
所以这是一个广告梦想。 So it's an advertising dream.
这些女孩中的许多人都是时尚的大消费者。 Many of these girls are big consumers of fashion.
并通过鼓励他人购买来谋生。 And earn a living from encouraging others to buy.
所以说服他们说话会很难。 So persuading them to talk will be hard.
这双鞋看起来太好了。 It looks so good with these shoes.
我在过去的几周里试探了四个女孩 I put the feelers out over the last couple of weeks and four girls
已经同意和我说话了。 have agreed to speak to me.
老实说，我真的不知道该期待什么， And honestly, I don't really know what to expect,
因为他们很大程度上是这个系统的一部分。 because they are very much part of this system.
我遇到的女人都是非常成熟的玩家 The women I'm meeting are very established players
在这个行业里。 in this industry.
你好！Niomi Smart博客关于生活方式，健康和时尚。 Hello! Niomi Smart blogs about lifestyle, health and fashion.
我一直在购物。 I have been shopping.
乔安娜和莎拉·哈尔平是模特和时尚博客写手。 Joanna and Sarah Halpin are models and fashion bloggers.
苏茜·刘(Susie Lau)是一名博客作者，也是一名时尚记者。 Susie Lau is a blogger and a fashion journalist.
他们加起来有将近250万的追随者。 Between them, they have nearly 2.5 million followers.
我想我拼命想说话的原因 I suppose the reason I was so desperate to speak
对你们来说是因为我认识到你们有多大的影响力。 to you guys is because I recognise how influential you are.
如此多的人仰慕你并做出某种决定 So many people look up to you and kind of decide
当他们看到你的照片时，他们会买什么 what they're going to buy, when they see your images
或者，你知道，你的帖子。 or, you know, your posts.
所以，如果可以的话，我会给你们看一点视频。 So, if it's all right, I'm going to show you a little bit of footage.
我是说，大海已经消失了。 I mean, the sea has vanished.
海床？就这样？那是大海。哇哦！ Sea bed? That was it? That was the sea. Wow!
这是我们在印度尼西亚。 So this is us in Indonesia.
这是数百万人使用和依赖的水。 This is the water that millions of people use and rely on.
我是说，你可以看到有死老鼠 I mean, you can see that there's dead rats
有点像漂浮在河里，因为它太有毒了。 kind of floating down the river because it's just so toxic.
水被污染了。 The water is so polluted.
所以，女孩们，我只是不顾一切地向你们展示这水。 So, girls, I'm just desperate to show you this water.
因为里面充满了化学物质。 Because it's full of chemicals.
这应该是很清楚的。 And this is supposed to be clear.
我现在可以闻到了。 I can smell it now.
是的，它开始. Yes, it's starting to...
哦，天啊，这.它已经在房间里了，不是吗？ Oh, God, it's... It's already in the room, isn't it?
很强，是的。 It's strong, yeah.
我的意思是，我会举起我的手说， I mean, I will hold my hands up and say,
“当然我也是问题的一部分。” "Of course I'm part of the problem."
我们正在推广这些产品，无论是时尚， We're promoting these products, whether it's fashion,
嗯，主要是以时尚为基础的，就像我发帖子的时候 well, mainly fashion-based, and it's like when I'm posting
一些我没有建立起之间的联系的东西 something I'm not making the connection between
它对个人和家庭造成的破坏 the devastation that it's causing to individuals and families
还有数以百万计的人 and, like, millions of people.
所以，这是一件很难思考的事情。 So, it's a really hard thing to think about.
我们不想推广某些品牌或快速时尚 We don't want to be promoting certain brands or fast fashion
在我们的帐户上，并且知道这是正在发生的。 on our accounts, and knowing that this is going on.
没有哪种思想-思想会进入这一领域。 There is no kind of mind-thought that goes into that.
我们不是故意这么做的。 We're not doing that on purpose.
我们如何给这些零售商施加压力，真正的压力 How can we put pressure, real pressure, on these retailers
这似乎是，他们中的一些人似乎忽视了 that seem to be, some of them seem to be ignoring
这是怎么回事？ what is so obviously going on?
而不是直接去零售商那里 Rather than maybe going directly to the retailers
进行这次非常坦诚的谈话， and having this very honest conversation,
我会直接和我的观众交谈，而不是， I would talk directly to my audience, rather,
这就是整个想法，“作为一个消费者，让我们 which is this whole idea of, "As a consumer let's
“改变我们的态度” "change our attitudes."
如果人们停止购买或想买东西 If people stop buying it or want to buy things
以不同的方式，那么这些大公司肯定 in a different way, then surely these huge companies
必须听，否则他们的销售额和利润会下降。 have to listen, or else their sales and profits are going to drop.
是的，要唤起改变需要来自我们， Yeah, to evoke change needs to come from us,
它需要来自消费者。 it needs to come from the consumer.
实际上，你能做什么？ Realistically, what can you do?
我认为我所做的事情的美丽以及为什么我热爱我的工作 I think the beauty of what I do and why I love my job
就是我可以带着我的观众一起旅行。 is that I can take my audience on a journey with me.
所以我认为这一切都是为了让人们知道他们可以穿 So I think it's all about allowing people to know that they can wear
同一套衣服不止一次。去你的朋友那里交换衣服。 the same outfit more than once. Go to your friends and swap clothes.
更像是，让我们谈谈这个， It's more like, let's talk about this,
我们能做什么才能更努力地做到更多 what can we do to make more of an effort towards being more
对环境有意识吗？ conscious about the environment?
我们真的很喜欢购买和与较小的品牌合作 We really like buying and working with brands that are smaller
而且可能已经更具可持续性了。 and are potentially already more sustainable.
所以在你同意和谁一起工作方面要有选择性吗？是啊。 So being selective in terms of who you agree to work with? Yeah.
我所能做的就是真的问为什么 What I can do is definitely really ask questions about why
有这么多收藏吗？ are there so many collections?
为什么有这么多产品？ Why is there so much product?
这是因为时尚真的在某种程度上升了 It's because fashion has really ramped up in a way
我们并不是真的需要。 that we don't really need.
姑娘们谢谢。这一切听起来都很有希望。 Girls, thank you. This all sounds so promising.
我希望这四个有影响力的人能传递一个信息 I hope these four influencers can deliver a message
关于将会传播的可持续性。 about sustainability that will spread.
真高兴我们来了。 I'm so glad we came.
我要把我的整个衣柜都翻一遍。 I'm about to go through my whole wardrobe.
我要把它清理干净。 I'm going to declutter it.
在我遇到影响者后不久，Niomi上传了这段视频 Shortly after I met the influencers, Niomi uploaded this video
在她的频道上。 on her channel.
我已经被这么多东西震惊了 I'm already, like, shocked by the amount of stuff.
就像它们是一次性的。 It is almost like they're disposable.
她在寻找能有所作为的方法。 She's looking for ways she can make a difference.
所以，我只想把我买的衣服放在衣柜里， So, I want to just have items in my wardrobe that I've bought,
我爱的，我知道我会穿很多次。 that I love, that I know I'm going to wear loads of times.
我不是说“不要再购物了” I'm not saying, "Don't shop any more."
只是不要经常这么做。 Just don't do it that often.
她的追随者积极参与。 And her followers are engaging positively.
这是一件好事，因为它只需要轻微的改变 It's a good thing because it will only take a slight shift
在我们的购物习惯中起到真正的作用。 in our shopping habits to make a real difference here.
让我告诉你我再也不会去购物了 For me to tell you that I'm never going to shop again
完全是不诚实的。 would be completely dishonest.
我当然是。 Of course I am.
但我确实认识到作为一个消费者我是多么的强大，我确实想去 But I do recognise how powerful I am as a consumer, and I do want to go
回到拥有衣服和爱衣服，而不是消费它们 back to owning clothes and loving clothes, and not consuming them
以我们现在所做的方式。 in a way that we do now.
在这些粘土上走任何一条大街都是不可能的 It's impossible to go down any high street these clays
而不是被引诱我们的图像轰炸 without being bombarded with images luring us
买便宜的衣服。 into buying cheap clothing.
但是我们为一件衣服支付的并不是真正的成本。 But what we pay for an item of clothing isn't the true cost.
真正的成本是使用了数百万加仑的水 The real cost is the millions of gallons of water that was used
生产面料。 to produce the fabric.
或是数百万加仑被有毒物质污染的水 Or the millions of gallons of water that was polluted with toxic
给衣服染色的化学物质。 chemicals to dye the clothes.
它正在消耗人们的生计。 It's costing people their livelihoods.
数以百万计的人因此而失去了健康。 It's costing millions of people their health.
事实上，它让我们付出了地球的代价。 In fact, it's costing us the Earth.
这是一种需要解决的情况。 It's a situation that needs addressing.
而且很快。 And fast.
现在必须有一种真正的紧迫感 There has to be a real sense of urgency now
因为，说实话， because, to be totally honest with you,
我们快没时间了。 we are running out of time.